ladakh trip part uno
We reached
Traffic was bad on the way. We got hooked near old railway bridge over the Yamuna for nearly an hour. Finally reached Rhidul's house. Thank god he came out to meet us.
Otherwise we would have never found his house in that great maze. We cooled off & decided to have beer & dinner over the soccer match. Its Euro 2004 time.
The beer was pretty strong. Got drunk. Gur had got tonnes of food. He challenged that he could finish it. We gave up on him. He gave up too, some time later...
The match was pretty interesting...but we were feeling sleepy...I & Rhidul went to sleep... Gur was to stay awake till
Woke up aaram se...Had breakfast till 11. Went with Rhidul to buy food. Saw flavored milk 500ml for the first time. Was pretty yummy...Poor PNC had to go to the barber's to have his beard trimmed. Then we left for the fort to repair Gurz camera. Sharma made 3 unsuccessful rounds of Chandni Chowk for parking the car. @last we asked a cop. he suggested to park in the Gurdwara. The guy @ Gurdwara said free parking for the hour...then Rs.50! We sped off to the camera shop…Gur & Rhidul prostrated at the Gurdwara while I & Parth lingered outside. Then we left for Karol Baugh...
Sharma seemed to forget the roads...we were making rounds @
2 times...finally we made it to the right way...
Again Sharma made rounds for the parking...he almost hit a guy who nearly tried to slap him! Gur smartassed him to park in front of a shop being renovated & right after a taxing turn to park... the people there made us take the car back out again! Finally we found paid parking…now Sharmaji wanted to have lunch....only @ MacDonald’s... &he took us around the whole market... We even entered the automobile market...but wouldn’t ask anyone...after 45mins of fruitless search... we finally asked someone...& we found it... it must be Sharma's bad day...we made him pay for the lunch...for making us go round & round...(we later returned his money) now Gurjot wouldn’t come out of Mac... He just wanted to sit there...we pushed off for PNC's shoes...his budget was Rs.800… pretty hard to find out there...finally we found him the right shoes.. & he bought them within 5mins!!!
Great at that he is....now Sharma wanted shoes too...but he was throwing tantrums... he wanted trek shoes like Woodlands…or Lee Coopers... we didnt find either…had to return empty handed...neither did PNC find his rucksack...actually didn’t have to buy it...we went back to Chandni Chowk for the camera...it would take time
so Gur said he would go to his relative's place & then Chandigarh directly...we left for home with Rhidul...on the Yamuna flyover from ISBT, I asked Sharma about the speed limits...He said it was 50...i told him he was going @ 70...he said they checked only on flyovers...& within 5 mins we saw cops in the bushes with the speed gun...but Sharma couldn’t slow down enough...we were stopped below the flyover...now Sharma showed his duplicate license...& the cop knew it...but Sharma wouldn’t agree...so he started checking other things and wanted to impound the car...for broken number plates...over speeding.. incomplete documents (lack of RC book, Sharma couldn’t find it) and the fake license...Sharma used his "Sirji please..." style... & we were left off with 400rs fine...exactly the amount we had...
came back home & Sharma told his Ram Kahani to his parents....... now we were in a fix about what to do... we sat with the washing machine....literally...& then on the terrace... good place it felt... we listened to loud music in his new terrace room... that was much fun...later PNC & I persuaded Sharma to watch Lakshya...it was released the same day...he found a theater near his house…multiplex to be exact!!
He said it was very bad...We couldn’t perceive anything worse than Rajshri in Baroda...so we left…to get the tickets first...god knows which end of the world it was located...he said it was one of the first multiplexes around!!! So the multiplex was much worse...smelled badly too...we resigned ourselves to fate...bought the tickets & left for dinner... we went to a small restaurant... had a quiet dinner...& went back to the multiplex...by now it was raining men literally!!!...no females in sight...full of rowdies & hooligans it seemed...we just stood there, amazed…while Sharma told us about these rowdies...and their short temper...they quarreled for time pass…
The door finally opened...& it was like UN food trucks in Somalia...we were suffocated in the crowd...finally we entered the movie hall...but to my surprise it was a lot better than expected... cushioned seats & air conditioned... although seating was haphazard...& finally the movie started....it was ok...Farhan Akhtar not at his very best...portraying personalities...he was more into the story...his father's story to be precise...
Came back home....watched another soccer match & went back to sleep....
I & Sharma woke up aaram se....PNC was up early & reading the newspaper since 8...he ate it till 10....Sharmaji served us some yummy bread-butter & omlette...
We packed our stuff....& left for ISBT by auto-rickshaw....the damn auto-rickshaw was dead-slow....we finally reached the ISBT after hell knows how long a time... We caught the
bus from outside...was a general bus...not express....it started off well...but then it showed its true colors... it stopped at each & every nook & corner on the road....with the conductor shouting Chandigarh Chandigarh....& the driver going about & through the waiting buses with full horn blaring...just to spite them I think.....somehow we managed to sleep....now we found that the bus had a possible puncture...after trying to stop at umpteen puncture shops he finally found the laziest mechanic on earth...who didn’t even know how to check the valve…which seemed to be giving the problem...we started off after half an hour..
Only to stop at Kurukshetra for lunch…we had Chola Bhatura...was ok...wouldn’t comment on it...although the lassi was good...we had just started...when the driver realized it was time for another puncture...we stopped within 3 mins flat....and had to stay on for another hour and a half...some passengers got on other buses...they went standing...We couldn’t...we already had lots of luggage...plus it wouldn’t budge from under the seats...so we waited & waited...
Finally we took off again...only for the conductor & driver to resume their irritating jobs....stopping & shouting all over the place.... the bus even went inside Ambala terminus...& stood in line behind 3 buses all going to Chandigarh...some optimist the conductor was I thought... anyway...we finally reached...
Started packing into 4 rucksacks all the mess we had...keeping some things out and all that...had a bath again...we were sweating profusely...finally we managed to stuff everything inside....had a sumptuous dinner...& started...late...as is usual of Gurr...
first we went to the bank...where I found my account showed nil balance...got 500rs out...and conveyed the bad news to the party....who couldn’t stop laughing…talked to my dad and asked him to see if the money was really in there....
and yet another twist in the tale....anyway...Gur went off somewhere to photocopy his passport & returned only after his dad was fuming....we caught the bus where we found 2 seats were transferred to the rear coz someone had spondylysis....so Gur & Rhidul had to be satisfied with last seats...while I had a broken one...whose reclining spring didn’t work & it kept falling into the person behind...(incidentally he was to trouble me & Parth all night for that....both were helpless...)
It took a long time to leave
Eventually we went to sleep...with the rear guy pestering us every 15 mins...
woke up early to see the sights & sounds near Kullu....road was gr8....the mountains...the fresh air...& all....reached Manali around 0700 I guess...tried my atm...It still showed no balance…
walked about 1.5 km to Nirvana our travel agent so to say.... waited for him to come.... some other guy came...Gur knew him…he said the owner was out...but his wife would be coming soon....we had tea.... the manager came soon... we asked him to find us a hotel...
he couldn’t find any below Rs. 500...so we decided to push off for the road trip same day itself....the lady came....gave us details for the bikes...we went to see them....they were still under repairs... we had to wait for an hour or more...taking test rides...fitting all accessories...but now the guy was quoting 400rs per bike per day...we obviously couldn’t afford it.....we got him down to 350rs....we were hoping for 300..I and Parth started calculating....we were already over budget....that was bad...we were expecting 5000rs now....for me and Parth....finally got the bikes...went to the city to buy gloves and cans for petrol...Gur almost hit a lot of people and manhandled the bike badly....got the cans and found the bike’s clutch was not responding at all...so I walked back to Nirvana while Gur went to get the clutch adjusted....found Sharma & Parth waiting...told them the problem...Gur came later...got the other tent....went off to lunch walking...it was ok...bought other things....decided against leaving today itself...& so started looking for a hotel...Gurdwara provided free space under a tin roof....found a guest house...
the room was tolerable and charged 250rs....gave 100rs advance and returned to Nirvana
came back to find Gurz bike not starting at all...thankfully we hadn’t started the trip otherwise we'd have had it....
So Sharma dropped off Parth at the guest house & went to bring the mechanic...I & Gur waited...for a long time...
Finally the mechanic came...and with a few minor touches & adjustments to the clutch...the bike was working again.....
Sharma went to drop him off…I & Gur went to the guest house... ready to sleep....but I forced Gur to leave for petrol & oil & other things...Parth went with him....
After they returned....I & Parth went for a walk in the main bazaar while Gur & Rhidul slept....nothing much...looked for a road map without success...ate a rotten ice cream....& saw the city.....
Went back at 2100 to wake the guys...who wouldn’t budge...so we went to sleep too...we had to wake up at 0400 next morning....
So we woke up between 0330 & 0400. Got ready....completed the morning formalities....tied the rucksacks to the bikes...and pulled on our warmers.... Gurjot found that the camera was not working...it wouldn’t click....that was a huge setback....after a lot of fiddling...it still didn’t work...so we gave up...we had bought 2 rolls just yesterday....it was nearly 0500...the hotel reception was locked and nobody in sight....so we took off....without paying! the room had been at rs100 now...we didn’t feel right...but such concessions in the budget were a necessity, welcome by one & all...we went to the petrol pump & filled the tanks & cans....worth almost Rs 1600....but they didn’t have engine oil for bikes...we were stranded early morning....thought of going to a pump ahead...near the river...no luck...came back and went to a pump on Kullu highway....no luck again....so we came to Manali market...resigning ourselves to fate....had breakfast....checked the bikes....tires...air....the air-pump made some fiddling necessary...
finally I urged that we make move...we would find a way....Gurjot went about & got info that a shop on the way usually opened early....so we started...& we found the shop....thank God...otherwise we would have to wait till at least 0830-0900....
So we took off finally....at 0700....We picked up early speed...the morning was clear & cold....the wind in our faces....the empty road lead us..... There we were for a journey of our lives....it hadn’t been easy to come this far....we had been through many heartbreaks & troubles...but I guess we finally made it....
All this was truly going through all of our minds I guess.. there was nervousness too....whether the bikes would stand up to the challenge or leave us stranded mid-way....but the momentary exhilaration swept away any negative feeling....the drive was relaxing but sharp.....lesser traffic on this usually crowded road helped us make early time..... We crossed the villages on the outskirts & went on towards
It could be only felt....running through our nerves....charging our blood....oxygenating our minds....making us go overdrive with emotion....near Gulabo Gur stopped to say the engine was responding slow....Sharma asked him to be careful with the clutch.....or there would be problems.....I guess that was just nervousness... we continued....onward.... went through the Army bridges at the riverside...it was a tourist spot but totally empty...(while returning we were stuck in dead slow traffic there....) Sharma's cap fell off...so we lagged behind...then we reached filled our water bag & continued for Rohtang... after some time...at about 0830 we reached Rohtang....we were going good....we stopped for rest....our backsides were numb....
Gurjot expressed desire to defecate on the peak.... & so he did....the rest of us contented with pissing there.....
We started the downhill run at about 0900.....
the turns were sharp & Gur seemed to be taxing his brakes....soon he found the rear brake was not working....Sharma diagnosed it was brake drum failure....& we were almost disgruntled with the affairs....the rest of the run was slow....we passed Kuksar and went on.....now we saw villages on the hills...beautiful places....snow capped peaks for backdrop....villages above & below the road....completely serviced by the army...or so we felt....beautiful green places with many a trees....we hoped to have an outhouse there someday....we came to a landslide area....the road was scheduled to be surfaced next year...but there was no road!!...only a rocky flat terrain.....we were going really slow...in order not to try our bikes anymore....and fearing a puncture....the road continued for about 15 kms...then we entered the plains again...along the mountains the road weaved taking us towards Tandi village where the final petrol pump on the road lay....about 100 kms from Manali... we reached there around 1130..... Filled our tanks....petrol was still the same price...cheaper than
we had lunch....noodles & Pepsi....Parth wouldn’t eat...though we urged him...
We left at around 1330.....after some good road....again a heavy landslide area started....plus we had to go uphill....& this terrain was anything but alright....the bike creaked & groaned.....and left us highly nervous.....water ran on the road....not just water....whole waterfalls!!! pillion had to get down for safety.....and to top it all it was also sandy.....the wheel would get stuck...if we revved up...the bike would jerk and hit a boulder ahead....creaking furiously....so we had to tackle it most cautiously.....finally we came to a betterroad...however better doesn’t mean good...its just relative...the road was almost non-existent in many a places....at about 1530 we started climbing for Baralachcha Pass....supposed to be a tyrant one.... Gur found a short cut & led the way...but Sharma couldn’t handle the straight uphill path with so many loose rocks...and we fell.....I had to shit by now....so I did...while Sharma caught his breath....we met a guy who was cycling...taking a break there....he expressed desire to cycle till Leh....we were filled with awe....that was some daredevil.....& he seemed utmost fit....we took the road up...not the shortcut...Parth was walking down....I walked up to meet him...found Gur had lost the accelerator....so Sharmaji came in…started with the wires....we were all exhausted by now...the cyclist passed us & on he went!!! The screws had worn heads and wouldn’t open...we had to use pliers.....finally we replaced the wire....we found one of the wires we brought to have a larger head...so it was useless…this meant we didn’t have any spare now....we also used duct tape to close the works!!! Finally we pushed off again....didn’t stop at the peak...the road was now worse as ever....all rocky and sandy.....and water pools lined the way.......Gur suddenly saw our bike had a puncture....i got down....we refilled the air...there was no way for repairs...Sarchu the nearest town was still about 30 kms away....and it was nearing to rain....plus it was now about 1700 and hence late....we saw a camp from above and decided to stop there....somehow Sharma got the bike downhill...and reached the camp...it was a tourist camp called Bharatpur or Parsu....there was a mechanic about....got the tire out....but the locales told us there was no puncture shop at Sarchu...only one was at Darcha....50 kms back the way we had come.....this was truly disheartening....we decided to camp there....Gur found a good place....we unloaded the rucksacks & started setting up tents....this was hard work too...all the pegs and too many cooks after all....finally after 30 mins the tents were up....Sharma was still fiddling with the tyre...there was no way to replace the tube....all the spares we had were of wrong size!!! what bad luck....so we went inside the nearest tent for dinner...tried to eat...but even simple dal-rice wouldnt make way down our throats....Gur said it was the height...we were almost at 4500-4600 mts...from Manali at 2000mts just in morning...we were bound to have altitude sickness... & we were feeling cold....really cold....plus it was raining....lightly but enough to chill us down the spine.... we found some truck driver who had tools to open the tyre...we did that...but we opened all the tubes at once...one tube had a loose valve and was uselesss....another setback....we had no spare tubes now...in all the confusion we ended up mixing the tubes...and we couldnt find the right one in the darkness....so we gave him what we thought was the right one... and he made the tyre for us....we inflated it to see in morning whether it was the right tube....
& we slept in the tents...i slept hard....almost rock hard...except for a few times when i woke up due to the dew forming inside the tent...and the rain outside...but PNC couldnt sleep all night...with all the 3 sweaters and windcheater and the heavy sleeping bag he still felt cold....and it kept him awake till morning....
next day i couldnt come out of the tent...felt so cold....initially...had our breakfast....we found we had put the wrong tube in the tyre...it was completely flat now.....Sharma borrowed tools from another truck wallah & we finally changed the tube.....required a lot of patience....we aligned the tyre to the bike..... then we folded the tents....by this time PNC was feeling highly cold....i also came to know even Rhidul & Gurjot had vomitted all night....and i was cold too....but PNC wanted to go back...he was talking of leaving back by bus...cos he said he would surely fall sick.....we were in a fix...we couldnt leave him....we couldnt go back...it was more tiresome....
we packed our things....got glucose to boost strength....but now PNC & Gur had quarrelled & PNC was adamnant...me & Sharma tried to console him & told him to come with us....that he would get used to it & no one could fall sick out here....that he should eat something....but he just wanted to go home....all the people around tried to tell PNC that it happened the first day....but one got used to it.... he wouldnt listen...
so Sharma said we would leave him at Sarchu where he would find a bus.....after a lot of what can i say Haggling...he agreed.....so we started at 1030....the road was initially bad....very bad....
then we entered the plains....it was like driving beside the Grand Canyon.....green grass plains surrounded by snow capped mountains....different rock formations to be seen & all that....the river was blue....the color of the sky....clear water....fast water racing over the rocks....in the canyon below...Suddenly there was a sharp turn....Sharma almost could have driven into the fall of the canyon....but he balanced it carefully at the last moment... we had come 250+ kms from Manali...after a bridge we reached Sarchu at 1230.....& what was Sarchu??? 4 tents!!!! just four tents...with a military transit station near it....thats all!!! we were dumbfounded.....our bike was making noise....the tyre was scraping against the chain guard.....& we were hoping to find a mechanic or a bus stand to leave PNC at...this was totally unexpected.....
Sharma tried truck wallahs & even at the army camp for tools but we didnt find any....
but we now had unexpected help...guys from the 60kph group were driving right behind us....& stopped here for lunch....they had tools...me & Sharma got to work.....without any success after an hour & half....they took leave with the tools....now we were completely stranded...another luck...
the army towing truck came....& Sharma flagged them down...& asked for help....most willingly they did....
we could only thank our lucky stars...& the jawans....they even offered to tow the bike if needed afterwards...they left ahead of us....we had a late lunch or early dinner as we realized later...PNC had reconciled to fate...and decided to come with us....
we realized we could reach only Pang settlement some 70 kms away till dusk...we pushed off at 1430
pushing off again by the plains....the sights amazed us...the road snaking its way through the uneven rockscape.....with the canyon its faithful companion & the sparkling blue river raving below....
we crossed into Jammu & Kashmir with a bridge...small one ofcourse....there was a machine-gunner in a bunker nearby....watching over the bridge...we were surprised....
we began ascent for Nakeela pass.....we reached GATA loops.....these testing snakes on the cliff face took us straight 900mts in 21 loops!!!
after a lot of time we crossed Nakeela....Sharma found engine oil levels low...but the oil was wih Gur...& he was not stopping..from above we saw him waiting below..but as soon as he saw us....he started on the next pass uphill....
the bike had started coughing....and we couldnt move further after we came down.....
after some time Gurjot returned.....we filled oil & started...slowly....this time there was no downhill ride....
we were passing through altitudes of 4200-4500mts...after some time...landslide area started...along with it the sinking area.....the river ran with us....all the way....now...it was almost 1700....
but again the landscape rejuvnated our spirits....this trip was absolutely exhilirating....
one section of the road was so bad....the diversion was through the river!!! Sharma lost balance & we took time to get the bike out of the pebbly river bed.....finally we crossed another bridge with another machine gunner....& reached Pang settlement...
we didnt care for our tent adventure now....we were all tired....exhausted.....the wind knocked out of us....
we fell asleep at 1800 and didnt wake up till next morning!!!!
during the night i found myself making noises.....hmms...and rolling around....disturbing PNC & another gentleman beside me.....Gur was extremely sick by now....he took some medicine...it was altitude oxygen problem...nausea...vomiting...headache....
once above....there was the plain....the much talked about plain...the road was bad....the plateau was a desert at 4000+mts!!!! The road slithered through it....the scenes was breathtaking...but it was cold...very cold...& Gur was feeling sick....
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