kutch trip 14-16 august 2009

14 September 2009 – Friday (Ahmedabad to Bhuj)

It was a frantic day. I had to attend a meeting in the morning & we still hadn’t started preparations for our trip. I finished my meeting by 12, which was late, & Nitin still couldn’t find a spare tube for the bike or a footpump. So, while he searched for the tube, I took over the footpump department & went till Mirzapur auto market, where I finally found it. Both items are absolutely essential for a bike-trip into desolate areas. I din’t want to be pushing a punctured monster of an enfield in the desert & we couldn’t have left the expensive machine.

Having found both items, we had a light lunch at my place & left into a cloudy sky threatening to pour any moment. Our exit out of Ahmedabad was greeted by a very light shower. Nitin’s enfield quickly zoomed to 80 kmph & stuck to it, lapping up miles at the go. I started to feel uncomfortable in the cramped pillion seat, especially with a heavy rucksack on my shoulders. At Sanand, we were shocked to find a large mass of people on the road, and we could hardly move forward. It was Janmashtmi and apparently there’s a famous Krishna temple at Sanand. The bike crawled its way out of a 2km stretch packed with people, push-carts, crying children, honking trucks and revelers just sitting on the road median…

After Sanand, the road was more or less empty, and the bike quickly regained its pace. I received a heavy blow on my bums each time we went over a pothole. Its interesting that the machismo’s seat is such that the rider cannot feel even the largest of the potholes, while the pillion can feel even the crushed gravel on the road!! To add to it, the seat is small & one has to seat upright or risk being toppled over at a pothole! This was to become the sore point of the entire trip…

We stopped at Viramgam bypass to stretch our legs, before proceeding to Dhangadhra. There was a spurt of sudden rain & we pulled over to don our windcheaters. Just as we started, it stopped raining and a furious sun bore down with all its heat directed at us! We were sweating inside the jackets & had to stop again to remove them. A second spell or light showers came shortly & we didn’t stop this time!

As we reached Dhangadhra bypass my bums were sore & I was in absolute pain. We stopped for tea and snacks. The green and storeyed landscape we found as we had left Ahmedabad was now reduced to large masses of scrubland. I was surprised not only to find large masses of agricultural land, but also large & small water bodies strewn all over the terrain! Wild grasses and seasonal plants covered every inch of soil, all except the road! It was a magnificent sight for a barren wasteland! This was Prosopis infested territory, but the native flora was giving a commendable fight!

Some distance from Dhangadhra we came across a seasonal stream filled with water! The locals had built check-dams and retained the stream as a reservoir. I took the bike from here & we touched NH-8 coming from Morbi. We refueled the bike and a short ride later we found ourselves amidst one of the most amazing scenery! The highway cut across endless expanse of salt-pans! In either direction, the salt-pans touched the horizon & the road was dead straight! He open expanse between the sea & land gave rise to immensely powerful local winds & it was a tad difficult to stand! Even the bike was riding at a slight tilt of a degree or two! Imagine the bullet being affected by wind!! It was nearing sunset and we conducted an extensive photo-session.

The bike wouldn’t start! I had put it on side stand & forgot to turn the fuel valve off, and now the carburetor was filled with fuel. After too many kicks, Nitin could finally get it started, but it was coughing and stalling all the time. It was dusk as we now raced towards our destination. After the salt-pans it was windmill land! The highway cut through scores of wind-farms and Nitin couldn’t resist another photo-session. It was past-dusk and we were still 120km from Bhuj, tired & I had a sore, painful bum. From the salt-pans to Bhachau is a great 4-lane stretch of highway. But from Bhachau to Bhuj is a winding hardly 2-lane stretch of country road. We drove in the dark, Nitin refusing to slow down on the uneven tarmac, resulting in many painful moments for me. It rained briefly & as we put on our jackets, it stopped again!

We finally reached Bhuj at 9.45pm and stumbled our way to the hotel. Nitin wanted a sumptuous dinner at a famous local restaurant and we waited in queue as I tried to keep myself awake. We finally got a seat at 11pm, only to be told that the unlimited menu was not available. We ordered some food & gulped it down in large mouthfuls! I fell asleep watching television, and Nitin trying to chat with me. My bum was swollen and pained at slightest touch.

15 September 2009 (Kalo Dungar & Banni)

We woke up at 7 and got ready quickly. We had tea and bought some snacks for the road. Today we were headed into the desert: Banni grasslands and Kalo Dungar. Outside of Bhuj we came across undulating terrain completely covered with seasonal flora! Just 20 kms later, we were in kharapat: salt-affected land. It was empty land with scarce scrub vegetation till one could see! The land was soft and cracked up due to the heat. The wind was at its extreme worst, and it was difficult to handle the bike. As I took over the bike, I found it shuddering in the wind. We kept going into the endless wasteland.

We took a left from the main road for Banni, and came up on a small country road. After crossing quite a few bhunga (mud-house) clusters, we reached the last village before the desert: Dhordo. As we crossed it we entered an endless grassland, and a BSF checkpost checked our further advance. One could see 4-5 types of grasses all over the land, and a similar number of shrubs edging it near the entry. It was a magnificent sight, and one could only imagine how this entire area turned into a white desert in summer! I remembered the Kalahari documentary Nitin had given me, where the desert turned into a dense oasis. This was no less! We came for the desert and found an endless grassland!!!

The 12pm heat was taking a toll on us, and we felt dehydrated inspite of drinking adequate fluids. As we made our way back to the main road, I was feeling sleepy and was nervous lest I fall off! Back on the main road, we headed towards Kalo Dunagar. We had a frugal lunch at Khavda village & proceeded to our destination. On the way a local person told us about India bridge, the last crossing into the desert, from where military territory began. A combination of steep and rolling inclines for 10 kms took us to the top of Kalo Dungar.

As we parked, we saw the most amazing sight of a lifetime! A salt-lake engulfing 3 sides of the hill, and we couldn’t even make out where the salt-lake ended and the sky began! The entire place in the distance was misty and one could perceive the distant emptiness. The numbing effect of the stillness of the enormous lake couldn’t be broken even by the wild gale on top of the hill! It is one of those sights that one sees and stops thinking. One can only stare at it dumbfounded, trying hopelessly to make sense of it and get one’s bearings! I had never imagined this place in my wildest dreams! It was silent, but one could feel its desolation roar coldly in one’s mind, if you can understand what I’m trying to explain. It was cold, empty and vast; but not serene. It was wild, raging & roaring in some way – threatening to swallow you somehow and you would never come back! Even this large hill looked miniscule and felt threatened by the lake! Maybe that’s how they must have imagined a Loch Ness monster: a fear imagined out of empty vastness of something that makes you feel nanoscopic…

After an extensive photography session we headed towards the India bridge: to experience the salt lake at near hand. The bridge is off-limits for civilians, but the approach road is on the salt-lake too. We stopped and went down onto lake. It was soft and squishy, almost like quicksand. It was nearly sunset and the place was completely eerie. Dead fish lying at the edge of the salty water, the soft mud wherein you start sinking if you stand even for a minute, the absolute stillness, no wind, stinging silence and no movement anywhere. After a short photo-session we headed back. We hardly exchanged words on our way, lost in the sight we had just seen…

Back in Bhuj a tasteless Gujarati thali filled our stomachs enough to put us to sleep.

16 August 2009 (Mandvi & back to Ahmedabad)

We woke up at 6am, got ready, had some bread-butter and headed towards Mandvi. The terrain was undulating with numerous water bodies & blooming flora all around! It was a sight I hadn’t imagined a desert district would ever present me with! The best experiences are those that one has not imagined before, and I was in it now…

The terrain flattened as we reached Mandvi and we crossed a creek with a ship-building area into the 400 year old port-town. It was just 8.30 & we headed straight to the beach. We were greeted by a long sandy shore with windmills on one end and a jetty on another. We quickly headed into the water and splashed about. During the photo-session, Nitin’s specs were washed away by a large wave. Now he couldn’t see more than a few feet. The bath facility was closed & we decided to change on the road itself! Just was we changed, the facility opened and we took a bath to relieve ourselves of the beach sand. Since Nitin couldn’t see properly, there was no point of going to the palace. It was just 10.30 but he was famished.

So we searched for a restaurant, and were guided to a famous local place called as Osho Lodge. As we entered they welcomed us but told us that lunch would be served only in an hour. So, here I am writing about the trip while we wait. Nitin is somewhere between sleeping, staring, photographing and playing with his phone to take his attention off from his stomach pangs! It’s the third day, and we are visibly tired, with sore bottoms and completely famished! I wonder how I made the bike trip to Ladakh. Ofcourse the over-riding reason would be the intense cold that numbs every other sensation & feeling!

After lunch we decided to head straight back to Ahmedabad. It was 12.30 and our destination was a good 450kms away!!!

The trip till Gandhidham was largely uneventful, with both of us wondering how the next 9-10 hours will pass. We stopped at an exceptionally bad stretch of highway near some SEZ. After Gandhidham, we hit the NH-8, where I raced across most other vehicles. On one pothole Nitin’s wallet fell from his pocket. We stopped immediately but somebody had taken it before he could reach it! Somebody told us a truck driver took it and we raced ahead after some trucks to ask them, with no success. Another pothole & his floaters fell off! I stopped & got them for him, and we decided to stop and calm ourselves down. After a sugary tea and some rest, Nitin blocked his debit card and we proceeded. He was quite pissed off with the circumstances, and didn’t utter a word except asking how far every hour or so. I took my tired self to task, and maintained a steady 80 kmph while slowing down at all potholes to keep Nitin’s groans down. We made a few stops for fuel, water and some snacks. At dusk we were 20 kms before Sanand, and I had to put the helmet visor up as I couldn’t see with oncoming lights. But there were too many insects, and I had to drive with one hand while putting one hand in front of my eyes to shield them from the insects. Inspite of my best efforts, the insects entered my eyes and we had to stop to wash my eyes. With the continued situation, we somehow made our way home. I saw myself in the mirror – a tired man with one swollen eyelid & red eyes – filthy and unshaven… I dropped Nitin home and fell straight into bed. It was exceptionally bad day! Nitin had lost his driving license and pan card in the wallet in addition to money, and my eyelid is still swollen a week after that!

pavagadh bike trip 19-07-2009

first of all, i must say im being quite lazy...this trip happened 9 days back & i still havent written about it...

so ba'shah khan calls me on a friday evening & asks if we should take a bike trip to pavagadh, and we had to find people..i suggested we go on saturday so we can rest on sunday, but he had some work.. so we went about looking for people & found two bakras.. the dude! & mr. CA.

everything was final on sat night, & i woke up at 3.30 on sunday to find that the dude is down due to a long football session. so that was the 3 of us..

ba'shah khan with his enfield machismo, me wid my discover & mr. CA on the backseat.. we started around 6.40 as mr. CA got late. As we touched the main highway ( we took Kheda Road as the Jashodhanagar road was flooded in monsoon), i felt the cold wind engulf me! soon we started testing our bikes & Ba'shah khan used to leave me biting the dust on his brand new babe! mine isnt so bad either & i could reach 95 easily... so there we were speeding towards pavagadh..

at nadiad we decided to have breakfast at a local joint, only to find that it started at 9 .. so we had some tea & khari & went on.. on a congestion free highway ba'shah khan was speeding at almost 100 sometimes, and i was trying hard to keep up.

at vasad, mr. CA took over the discover as i sat in the back to take fotos on ba'shah khan's rebel... i hadn't anticipated the new flyovers on baroda bypass, and we overshot the halol expressway by almost 7 kms...

we returned & took the expressway. when we stopped to fill petrol, i shifted behind the enfield.. this time it went to a 110 with mr. CA trying to push mine to a 100!! halol expressway rocks!!

after that wonderful zippy drive, we reached the turn towards pavagadh & saw the hill in all its glory. it was time for the photographer in ba'shah khan to awaken and he started clicking ...madly!! we did some modelling on the chrome of his enfield and then took off again.. i took the discover & mr. CA sat behind the enfield

the road was amazingly green, completely covered with ground cover & grasses.. and we could spot some waterfalls on the hill! As we came to the hill's climb, ba'shah khan started pushing the enfield again with me at his tail! it was quite a wonderful performance with my discover at the hells of the machismo till the top!

we had some absolutely distasteful grub at machi & took the ropeway to the top. While Mr. CA went for the darshan and ba'shah khan went about his photography, i enjoyed the absolute silence on near the Jain temples..

when mr. CA returned we did some modelling around the temples & ruins.

then it started pouring madly! ba'shah khan put the camera in & we started off towards the kothar on the cliff edge. we encountered a small dug tank on the way, & it was so misty that we couldn't see beyond 15 feet! we took quite a few fotos at that place only to be driven away by some chattering youngsters...

as we reached the kothar, we realized we couldnt see the cliff edge as visibility was hardly 10 feet! we went inside to dry ourselves, and suddenly ba'shah khan ran out with the camera.. the clouds were moving and the cliff edge was coming into view! it was a breathtaking sight! & we went about our modelling again!

wild rain drove us back in & i showed ba'shah khan the light from the window in front of which me & mr. CA started modelling...

we were inside for over 2 hours during which the rain refused to stop!

when it did intermittently, we used to go out & shoot around.. ba'shah khan took some jumping fotos which me & mr. CA started aping! the results were amazing!

suddenly we realized it was 3.30 pm & we gotta get back! so we rushed in the rain and reached the dug pond again. this time it was clear & ba'shah khan spent some time clicking away.. as we started leaving wind picked up, and it was so hard we were almost getting blown away!!! we stooped low and ran towards the Jain temples. as we reached them, it started pouring madly. somehow we reached the ropeway & i was thinking all the time it must be closed in heavy rains..

luckily it was open & we jumped in.. the way down was amazing! as we left, we couldnt see even 5 feet outside.. as the ropeway came lower we started seeing machi & the rain lessened. from machi we could see the rain battering the hill top, from where we had just returned!

back on our bikes after chai & bhajiya! we entered baroda and headed straight for nilkanth!!!

from there we went to the college and i was stunned at the variety of work & trash lying around!

we decided to dine at vasad, and being hungry since morning i had more than a day's fill of delicious kathiyawadi food, while feeling nostalgic about the old days when we used to go there...

we were so tired, we could hardly sit on our bikes, and yet when we did, we were racing each other again at 80+ speeds.. we reached abad non-stop & fell into bed, all the bones creaking & muscles crying out!!!! what a crazy day!

Mount Abu explorers

It was a funny saturday evening... Neither me, nor Dimples knew whether we were going to be working the next day... Then miss Laser insisted on buying glasses. So, we met over at a specs shop. I hammered Dimples into letting loose & going on a trip. I & the Badshah had been making unsuccessful plans (attempts) to go somewhere & he had put up the idea of Mt Abu. He had also added in desperation that atleast a small outing to Adalaj should be done, lest Abu doesn't materialize. So here we were - I & miss Laser verbally beating Dimples black & blue. He tried to hide behind Bong sirji, who is infamously lazy for any unrequired movements - from vacations to trips (except dinners, where he is overtly active!). So we called up Bong and said - " CHOOSE! either you go or we take Dimples. Faced with this choice, ofcourse Dimples had a go!!!" Bong would handle whatever office might throw at him, just to get us off his back!!!

So I called up the Badshah & confirmed the trip. Laser finally got a pair of likeable frames & we went for tea to meet the Bong.. & thats how it began..

We met again post dinner - i picked up the Badshah who couldnt make up his mind whether to wear floaters or shoes. I told him I'm going to trek (though I was wearing floaters) irrespective of the general mood! So he got into his sports shoes & came down. We couldnt find a petrol pump at that hour, since the usual one was closed. So, we reluctantly went back towards Drive in & picked up Dimples & Laser. Enter another character - the Badshah's cousin - mr bell-the-cat... We picked him up after losing our way to his home about twice (in my mind atleast). & headed towards the highway. 20 kms down & we still hadnt encountered a petrol pump. Dimples looked at the fuel guage & declared he wouldnt be pushing the car at any costs.. Just then a petrol pump popped up in front of us, & we filled up ....

Finally the journey had started, a planned event for 12 am at about 12.45 ishh....

I got comfortable into the driver's seat of my black beauty (thats my esteem, or what's left of it!) and gulped down miles on the narrow two laner till Chiloda. Mr bell-the-cat by my side & rest of the gang chittering in the back, it was a fun beginning..

But the moment we hit the 4 lane expanse and i pushed the black beauty to a smooth 120, the noises in the back subsided to snores & occasional burps... They were fast asleep!! so it was me & bell-the-cat who was looking precariously at the speedo & the road, and then vehicles that i overtook... wondering whether i was awake or asleep!!!

We paced through Himmatnagar, Idar & then on towards Khedbrahma... where the surprises awaited us.. The road, although empty & clean was bumpy as hell!! The guys in the back growled, cried & groaned while I & bell-the-cat were laughing nervously.. There wasnt a thing we could do- the road was pitch black & the beauty couldn't light the path enough to show us the undulations. So we continued our jittery ride through Khedbrahma, on towards Ambaji. We started climbing, the turns became taxing & more interesting for the driver in me. By this time (about am) sleep was trying to push down my eyelids while i battled the bumps & bends.... Luckily, mr bell-the-cat kept a close watch, out of his own nervousness to stay alive i guess!! As for the rest, they passed between states of groaning, laughing, sleep & dreams. Ms Laser seemed oblivious of the whole drama, sleeping as if in a soundproof (& bump proof) cradle!

Mr Dimples was awake for some time & told us interesting stories of his earlier bike trip to abu & the anecdotes of his group on this road. It was quite good for keeping us awake & he drifted off to sleep again...

Finally we stopped at the other end of Ambaji, trying in vain to find a tea shop. While we got out & stretched, Ms Laser drifted back to earth trying to comprehend her surroundings! After a futile look around for anything edible, we sat back & continued towards our destination. Somewhere on the way we encountered a large flyover above us & Mr Dimples announced loudly: " Oye driver! we have taken a wrong turn somewhere & lost our way.... A dark expanse on the other side of the flyover showed a hand made board announcing the way to Mt Abu, but we were apprehensive of taking another wrong turn. So we used the service lane along the flyover to reach the main highway, wondering where it went. We read the words Abu Road GAIL colony somewhere & decided we werent too off the mark. I saw a police jeep checking vehicles ahead & thought of asking them. I couldnt have been stupider, but then they had seen us & i didnt have a choice either...

The moment we stopped they pulled us aside & started asking for papers, license & anything that they could incriminate us for. To their luck, the black beauty after its recent service was devoid of registration papers, insurance, the whole package missing except for photocopies! The cops relished at the smell of bakras & told us the fine would be high or we could let the car be impounded & visit the court on monday (there was still a sunday in between!) Knowing their attitude me & Dimples set up a drama by eye contact. I produced my student card & told them we would go back if they let us go.. The argument ensued with our sirjis & students haai pushing them out of their comfort zones. Finally the junior asked for a 1000 bucks! I promptly came up with 200 & he got hysterical... I again started ranting about students & all.. & declared myself out at 500.. So he was eyeing atleast 500 & I had another plan, which Dimples happily saw in my actions.. While mr bell-the-cat came up with a 500 which i slipped into my pocket in a jiffy, i fished out 100s, 50s, & whatever 10s i had to make up the 500. The cop was completely taken aback & i told him this was all i had! He reluctantly gave back the 10s, leaving 450 with him. His senior looked at him disapprovingly & he gave back another 50.. after which he happily showed us the way! We went on the main highway & stopped at the first tea shop to recharge ourselves after a sleepy bumpy drive and a good half hour of haggling over a stupid bribe...

Now Mr Dimples doesnt have tea or coffee, so he thought of trying the local cola (RC Cola) and chips... He was eating them awkwardly & i was wondering until the Badshah tasted the chips & spat them out!!! I was laughing my heart out & we tried to feed them to the dog, who sniffed at them & looked away...

The tea shop owner guided us towards Abu & we rattled our bones on narrow streets towards somewhere.. Suddenly we hit a small state highway & thankfully the Mt Abu hill could be seen in the background. I was recharged by the tea, but the backseat fell asleep again. The road was more torturous this time & Mr bell-the-cat between his spates of sleep & nervousness kept looking at me. I was fighting to keep my eyelids open & thankfully there was no traffic on the insanely narrow road. Somehow we reached the top & entered the town! Mr Bell-the-cat decided he could show us the way towards the lake (which is the town centre) but after a few confusing turns we tried using the insane signages which sprung up at the wrong places! Somehow we reached the city centre & parked into a lot & stretched ourselves, whereby the Badshah, fully charged after a good sleep sprung into action with his Rebel XTI!!! Sometimes i feel he can capture any animate, inanimate thing as long as it exists!!! But then he has the talent to make them look photogenic! Ms Laser quickly disappeared to freshen herself while Mr Dimples spread in the backseat to take a loong nap. I was smiling as i could see the sun come up & my dear black beauty particularly likes to heat herself up with his grace. Poor Mr Dimples would realize that in the middle of his dawn siesta.

Ms Laser was taking too long so we decided to explore the area. We went to the lake and the Badshah started snapping up the scenic moments... Suddenly we saw the famous toad rock and decided to go up there. While i waited for Ms Laser to catch up midway, the Badshah & mr bell-the-cat had found a mango tree to climb over. I was over-excited to see their antics & joined the fun, finally me being the only person to successfully climb the lowest branch... Alas there were no mangoes for the Badshah - who is a mango maniac!!!...

We continued upto the toad rock while I & Ms Laser chatted about the flora & the Badshah was wondering if we had another topic on earth to discuss. A most beautiful moment awaited us at the top, with the sun just breaking over the horizon & lighting up the waters of the lake. the Badshah was quick to spring into action with his rebel furiously documenting the surrounds. Mr Bell-the-cat tried to find a way up the toad rock but came back after some time deciding not to break his bones. While I & Ms Laser continued our chatter about the flora, our stomachs growled in unison. So we started back towards the sights & smells of food. Mr Bell-the-cat found a decent restaurant just in time for us to see black beauty showing her true colour to Mr Dimples who had jumped out due to the heat!!!! Slowly he trudged towards the small dinera and we had a hearty breakfast of yummy aloo parathas & upma and not so yummy other things.

Another moment of indecision swept us while we wondered what to do. Mr Bell-the-cat, the only person who knew something about the place told us about gurushikar & Delwada temples. So we drove towards Delwada with another set of confusing signages guiding us. Finally we reached delwada only to be told that the temples opened at 12. We had a good 2.5 hours to kill & Gurushikar was the only option. We decided to go there for the drive & started off through a scenic scrub forest, farmhouses & meandering roads. As we approached the hill hosting gurushikar I realized it was the home of the air force radar station too! I had seen it on an earlier trekking trip & wondering how it would be to look down from that height!

Another set of taxing roads faced us, but I was quite upto the task with the Badshah biting my ear at every wrong move! The moment we reached the base of the temple, a cool breeze (wind rather) hit us. Instinctively we headed to the nearest parapet & stretched out, taking in the coolness while looking at the scene around. We were almost on the verge of going back when Mr Dimples (to his later dismay) decided to take a walk till the steps of the temple. A few steps up had me & the Badshah hungry for more, so we slipped down the sides & tried to take up another route. In our excitement we hardly realized we had climbed up to the top! When we paused to take some photos i called up Dimples to inform him of our whereabouts. As expected they were looking for us at the base. Well the temple is not too high, only as much as a 20-30 storey building, but the climb is taxing enough as its continuous. So we reached the top & went over to the other side - the Badshah's rebel taking in views of the astronomical observatory & the landscape on the whole. While we were fooling around at the top in the cool gale of a wind, Dimples called to say it was getting hotter at the base. I & the badshah reluctantly went down to the base to face a heated up area. Ms Laser showed me her shopping while they (all but me) had lassi & chaas.

As i started making our way down the twisting roads, the badshah growled that the lassi had upset his stomach.... We reached the Delwada & the Badshah was in no mood to walk around. I warned them that we would have to come back quite a long distance to visit the temples again, while Mr bell-the-cat insisted we could give them a miss or see them right now. We even thought of visiting the wildlife sanctuary on the way, but the majority wanted to head to the lake. The moment we neared the lake a stream of cars came up behind us honking crazily. I was frustrated & tired, and tried to look for a parking space. In the ensuing confusion, i drove to the other side of the lake. When we were too far I thought i could make the complete round & come back to the main bazaar. But at one point the road was barricaded so that we could see the road on the other side but the car couldnt cross. We were all tired & there were quite a few families stretching on the benches by the lakeside. I told the gang that i had a carpet in the boot & we could lie down for some time before lunch. Everyone readily agreed & we lay down on a combination of the carpet, the parapet & some old newspapers. While the tree above us was not shady, the cool breeze brought respite. We fell asleep for some time until Mr bell-the-cat was hungry & bought some snacks from a vendor nearby. I was talking him into boating on the lake when a stupid urban family parked beside us & started drinking (hard) and playing loud insane songs from a byegone era. Again, Ms Laser seemed to be in a cocoon of her own, untouched by the sounds around her, while Mr Dimples & the Badshah were raised out of their slumber in a decidedly agitated state. They took off to test the rebel on some edible items armed with a macro lens while i chatted with Mr bell-the-cat. As hunger took over, Mr Dimples cautiously tried to wake up Ms Laser who kicked him repeatedly. Finally she woke up & looked around to see a patch of shade right beside her. "Alas" she said, " only if i had moved by a food" "Then we would have gone hungry today" said I, laughing away! So we made our way back to the bazaar & parking bang in the middle of a turn as i got a hunch that something bad would come up later. We relished on whatever was put before us, irrespective of its taste, and Mr Dimples' last order overfed us both.

As we came out Mr Bell-the-cat motioned me towards a traffic cop standing behind the car. My hunch was right & we were in trouble again. Mr Dimples had a bright plan & told me to sit in the car while the cop looked around the other side and drive away. That i did, half expecting a shouting cop in my rearview. Thankfully i reached out of his reach while the rest of the gang walked up to the car. As they sat, Mr Dimples said- "Driver! the way to the temple is still from where the cop is!!" How stupid of me i thought, i had driven in the wrong direction. After a futile attempt to find a way in the OTHER direction, i decided to face the cop as i doubled back. As we reached the junction, the cop was not to be found, and i pushed the accelerator to lead the black beauty away!!!

I parked right in front of the Delwada gate, as a cop blew his whistle & asked me to park in the alloted space. I trudged back up the slope in the 3 o clock heat, swearing at myself for being a lazy couch potato... Mr bell-the-cat had seen the temple enough times & volunteered to wait outside with our stuff while we took a tour of the temple in the crowds.

The temples were simply mindblowing with their intricate carvings & amazing geometry! As the guide rightly said, they were a mighty match to the Taj Mahal in terms of worksmanship! As we jostled through the five temples listening to stories about their construction & general events we were increasingly awed by the architecture. Im sure the Badshah was missing his rebel like hell!

As we came out, a bored looking Mr bell-the-cat was trying things with the rebel as Mr Badshah looked at it longingly... if only he could document the Delwada... Im sure we would have to leave him there for the entire day!!!!

So we dragged ourselves back to the parking lot & rested in the windy area for some time. Mr Dimples couldnt find a washroom & wanted to go back to the bazaar as i eyed the fuel guage with suspicion. We decided to head downhill to Abu Road & find a fuel pump before lest we needed to push the car halfway. As the Badshah took the wheel, the rest of us eyed the fuel guage nervously. Thankfully we reached the Abu road before we ran out of fuel. But the journey downhill & without the ac (since fuel was low) had taxed my head & Mr Dimple's stomach.

As we drove out after refuelling, Mr Dimples vomited. I was feeling groggy too, as i always feel in the backseat, & the Khedbrahma road increased my headaches. Somehow i lived through the bumpy ride through Ambaji & Khedbrahma.

Just as we crossed a railway crossing (with traffic cops fishing around again!) 2o kms from Idar, i heard a weird rumbling in the rear. I asked the Badshah to pull up on the side & walked around the car checking...

One tyre had gone fully burst with even the outer tire cut through!! The airconditioned inside & the bumpy road hadnt given a clue on the steering as the Badshah was battling the roads. We changed to the spare & found it was either low on air or punctured. So, Ms Laser & the badshah drove towards the town on the horizon while I, Mr Dimples & Mr bell-the-cat walked the way.

There was no electricity in the village to run the air pump, so we had tea & waited. Thankfully, the spare was just low on air & not punctured. We continued our journey & i was drifting between sleep & drowsy observations by this time.

Sometime at 9-9.30 we reached Gota chowkdy where we turned inside from the highway to drop Mr Bell-the-cat & had to retrace our steps due to a flyover in construction. Between dropping Mr Bell-the-cat, the Badshah, Mr Dimples & Ms Laser my mind was registering less & less. Somehow i reached home, had a bath & fell flat on my bed!!!!

Insanity, stupidity - a communal perspective

Day before yesterday I saw a shocking incident... Now, I've seen Hindu Muslim riots before my eyes, and I've seen Godhra happen. But I would attribute those to mob mentalities in general. I have only heard, but never seen racisim / communalism happen before my eyes.

So I was standing at a traffic signal on IIM Junction, Ahmedabad and a rickshaw with a Muslim driver drew up beside me. A guy got down from it (in his fifties perhaps) & blatantly refused to pay the rickshaw driver!!! In addition, he started hurling abuses saying: " I won't let you enter Vastrapur again... I am a Kathiawadi, I will kill you..." and all this with hundreds of expletives in between. The rickshaw walla (in his sixties or seventies) was bold enough to give back verbally.

But there's more... The passenger started hitting the rickshaw wallah!!!! He smacked him 4-5 times while the rickshaw wallah kicked about trying to loosen the guy's grip. A few people tried to get the passenger away, but the signal had gone green & vehicles started moving about... I was too shocked to move, but left the scene as everyone around was honking like crazy.

Sadly, neither me (shamefully), nor the cops (who were hardly 10m away & watching), nor others around stood up for the rickshaw wallah. I experience tremendous shame as i confess witnessing this shameful act in front of my eyes without doing anything about it...

Are we even humans? Is this the way to treat a fellow human being? Are we taught this, or learn this somewhere? What drives us to this? It is all so stupifying.....

Dry life...

There's something known as dry days outside of Gujarat: when you dont get liquor in public...
well this is dry life for me - no fun outings since a long time. I am guilty of not recording my village trips, but things have been too hectic since then & travel is down to zero...

This blog suffers my current fate...

ladakh trip 2004

ladakh trip part uno

"LEH" the land of many dreams for me....

my most inspiring trip ever...

i have been trying to write about it ..

but push it off time and again..

this is where i have reached as yet..

the photos are missing... (for now)

and the narration leaves much to be desired..

only for those who really want to know about the

TRIP

and the experiences associated with it...

17 June 2004

We reached Delhi @ 1900. Caught a prepaid auto-rickshaw from the station for Rhidul's house.

Traffic was bad on the way. We got hooked near old railway bridge over the Yamuna for nearly an hour. Finally reached Rhidul's house. Thank god he came out to meet us.

Otherwise we would have never found his house in that great maze. We cooled off & decided to have beer & dinner over the soccer match. Its Euro 2004 time.

The beer was pretty strong. Got drunk. Gur had got tonnes of food. He challenged that he could finish it. We gave up on him. He gave up too, some time later...

The match was pretty interesting...but we were feeling sleepy...I & Rhidul went to sleep... Gur was to stay awake till 2 o’clock in the morning until PNC forced him to sleep.

18 June 2004

Woke up aaram se...Had breakfast till 11. Went with Rhidul to buy food. Saw flavored milk 500ml for the first time. Was pretty yummy...Poor PNC had to go to the barber's to have his beard trimmed. Then we left for the fort to repair Gurz camera. Sharma made 3 unsuccessful rounds of Chandni Chowk for parking the car. @last we asked a cop. he suggested to park in the Gurdwara. The guy @ Gurdwara said free parking for the hour...then Rs.50! We sped off to the camera shop…Gur & Rhidul prostrated at the Gurdwara while I & Parth lingered outside. Then we left for Karol Baugh...

Sharma seemed to forget the roads...we were making rounds @Connaught Place...the right road was closed off for Metro construction...& he missed the other road

2 times...finally we made it to the right way...

Again Sharma made rounds for the parking...he almost hit a guy who nearly tried to slap him! Gur smartassed him to park in front of a shop being renovated & right after a taxing turn to park... the people there made us take the car back out again! Finally we found paid parking…now Sharmaji wanted to have lunch....only @ MacDonald’s... &he took us around the whole market... We even entered the automobile market...but wouldn’t ask anyone...after 45mins of fruitless search... we finally asked someone...& we found it... it must be Sharma's bad day...we made him pay for the lunch...for making us go round & round...(we later returned his money) now Gurjot wouldn’t come out of Mac... He just wanted to sit there...we pushed off for PNC's shoes...his budget was Rs.800… pretty hard to find out there...finally we found him the right shoes.. & he bought them within 5mins!!!

Great at that he is....now Sharma wanted shoes too...but he was throwing tantrums... he wanted trek shoes like Woodlands…or Lee Coopers... we didnt find either…had to return empty handed...neither did PNC find his rucksack...actually didn’t have to buy it...we went back to Chandni Chowk for the camera...it would take time

so Gur said he would go to his relative's place & then Chandigarh directly...we left for home with Rhidul...on the Yamuna flyover from ISBT, I asked Sharma about the speed limits...He said it was 50...i told him he was going @ 70...he said they checked only on flyovers...& within 5 mins we saw cops in the bushes with the speed gun...but Sharma couldn’t slow down enough...we were stopped below the flyover...now Sharma showed his duplicate license...& the cop knew it...but Sharma wouldn’t agree...so he started checking other things and wanted to impound the car...for broken number plates...over speeding.. incomplete documents (lack of RC book, Sharma couldn’t find it) and the fake license...Sharma used his "Sirji please..." style... & we were left off with 400rs fine...exactly the amount we had...

came back home & Sharma told his Ram Kahani to his parents....... now we were in a fix about what to do... we sat with the washing machine....literally...& then on the terrace... good place it felt... we listened to loud music in his new terrace room... that was much fun...later PNC & I persuaded Sharma to watch Lakshya...it was released the same day...he found a theater near his house…multiplex to be exact!!

He said it was very bad...We couldn’t perceive anything worse than Rajshri in Baroda...so we left…to get the tickets first...god knows which end of the world it was located...he said it was one of the first multiplexes around!!! So the multiplex was much worse...smelled badly too...we resigned ourselves to fate...bought the tickets & left for dinner... we went to a small restaurant... had a quiet dinner...& went back to the multiplex...by now it was raining men literally!!!...no females in sight...full of rowdies & hooligans it seemed...we just stood there, amazed…while Sharma told us about these rowdies...and their short temper...they quarreled for time pass…

The door finally opened...& it was like UN food trucks in Somalia...we were suffocated in the crowd...finally we entered the movie hall...but to my surprise it was a lot better than expected... cushioned seats & air conditioned... although seating was haphazard...& finally the movie started....it was ok...Farhan Akhtar not at his very best...portraying personalities...he was more into the story...his father's story to be precise...

Came back home....watched another soccer match & went back to sleep....

19 June 2004

I & Sharma woke up aaram se....PNC was up early & reading the newspaper since 8...he ate it till 10....Sharmaji served us some yummy bread-butter & omlette...

We packed our stuff....& left for ISBT by auto-rickshaw....the damn auto-rickshaw was dead-slow....we finally reached the ISBT after hell knows how long a time... We caught the

bus from outside...was a general bus...not express....it started off well...but then it showed its true colors... it stopped at each & every nook & corner on the road....with the conductor shouting Chandigarh Chandigarh....& the driver going about & through the waiting buses with full horn blaring...just to spite them I think.....somehow we managed to sleep....now we found that the bus had a possible puncture...after trying to stop at umpteen puncture shops he finally found the laziest mechanic on earth...who didn’t even know how to check the valve…which seemed to be giving the problem...we started off after half an hour..

Only to stop at Kurukshetra for lunch…we had Chola Bhatura...was ok...wouldn’t comment on it...although the lassi was good...we had just started...when the driver realized it was time for another puncture...we stopped within 3 mins flat....and had to stay on for another hour and a half...some passengers got on other buses...they went standing...We couldn’t...we already had lots of luggage...plus it wouldn’t budge from under the seats...so we waited & waited...

Finally we took off again...only for the conductor & driver to resume their irritating jobs....stopping & shouting all over the place.... the bus even went inside Ambala terminus...& stood in line behind 3 buses all going to Chandigarh...some optimist the conductor was I thought... anyway...we finally reached... Chandigarh...& hired cycle rickshaws to Gurz place.... ate something... went to the ground to try the large tent...found it highly unstable...& settled for the 2 man tent...with plans to hire another one in Manali...

Started packing into 4 rucksacks all the mess we had...keeping some things out and all that...had a bath again...we were sweating profusely...finally we managed to stuff everything inside....had a sumptuous dinner...& started...late...as is usual of Gurr...

first we went to the bank...where I found my account showed nil balance...got 500rs out...and conveyed the bad news to the party....who couldn’t stop laughing…talked to my dad and asked him to see if the money was really in there....

and yet another twist in the tale....anyway...Gur went off somewhere to photocopy his passport & returned only after his dad was fuming....we caught the bus where we found 2 seats were transferred to the rear coz someone had spondylysis....so Gur & Rhidul had to be satisfied with last seats...while I had a broken one...whose reclining spring didn’t work & it kept falling into the person behind...(incidentally he was to trouble me & Parth all night for that....both were helpless...)

It took a long time to leave Chandigarh...& god knows which road he took....at about 10 we stopped at a restaurant in Nalgarh...another snack courtesy of Gurz wonderful mom.... who provided lots of eatables for the trip....

Eventually we went to sleep...with the rear guy pestering us every 15 mins...

20 June 2004

woke up early to see the sights & sounds near Kullu....road was gr8....the mountains...the fresh air...& all....reached Manali around 0700 I guess...tried my atm...It still showed no balance…

walked about 1.5 km to Nirvana our travel agent so to say.... waited for him to come.... some other guy came...Gur knew him…he said the owner was out...but his wife would be coming soon....we had tea.... the manager came soon... we asked him to find us a hotel...

he couldn’t find any below Rs. 500...so we decided to push off for the road trip same day itself....the lady came....gave us details for the bikes...we went to see them....they were still under repairs... we had to wait for an hour or more...taking test rides...fitting all accessories...but now the guy was quoting 400rs per bike per day...we obviously couldn’t afford it.....we got him down to 350rs....we were hoping for 300..I and Parth started calculating....we were already over budget....that was bad...we were expecting 5000rs now....for me and Parth....finally got the bikes...went to the city to buy gloves and cans for petrol...Gur almost hit a lot of people and manhandled the bike badly....got the cans and found the bike’s clutch was not responding at all...so I walked back to Nirvana while Gur went to get the clutch adjusted....found Sharma & Parth waiting...told them the problem...Gur came later...got the other tent....went off to lunch walking...it was ok...bought other things....decided against leaving today itself...& so started looking for a hotel...Gurdwara provided free space under a tin roof....found a guest house...

the room was tolerable and charged 250rs....gave 100rs advance and returned to Nirvana

came back to find Gurz bike not starting at all...thankfully we hadn’t started the trip otherwise we'd have had it....

So Sharma dropped off Parth at the guest house & went to bring the mechanic...I & Gur waited...for a long time...

Finally the mechanic came...and with a few minor touches & adjustments to the clutch...the bike was working again.....

Sharma went to drop him off…I & Gur went to the guest house... ready to sleep....but I forced Gur to leave for petrol & oil & other things...Parth went with him....

After they returned....I & Parth went for a walk in the main bazaar while Gur & Rhidul slept....nothing much...looked for a road map without success...ate a rotten ice cream....& saw the city.....

Went back at 2100 to wake the guys...who wouldn’t budge...so we went to sleep too...we had to wake up at 0400 next morning....

21 June 2004

So we woke up between 0330 & 0400. Got ready....completed the morning formalities....tied the rucksacks to the bikes...and pulled on our warmers.... Gurjot found that the camera was not working...it wouldn’t click....that was a huge setback....after a lot of fiddling...it still didn’t work...so we gave up...we had bought 2 rolls just yesterday....it was nearly 0500...the hotel reception was locked and nobody in sight....so we took off....without paying! the room had been at rs100 now...we didn’t feel right...but such concessions in the budget were a necessity, welcome by one & all...we went to the petrol pump & filled the tanks & cans....worth almost Rs 1600....but they didn’t have engine oil for bikes...we were stranded early morning....thought of going to a pump ahead...near the river...no luck...came back and went to a pump on Kullu highway....no luck again....so we came to Manali market...resigning ourselves to fate....had breakfast....checked the bikes....tires...air....the air-pump made some fiddling necessary...

finally I urged that we make move...we would find a way....Gurjot went about & got info that a shop on the way usually opened early....so we started...& we found the shop....thank God...otherwise we would have to wait till at least 0830-0900....

So we took off finally....at 0700....We picked up early speed...the morning was clear & cold....the wind in our faces....the empty road lead us..... There we were for a journey of our lives....it hadn’t been easy to come this far....we had been through many heartbreaks & troubles...but I guess we finally made it....

All this was truly going through all of our minds I guess.. there was nervousness too....whether the bikes would stand up to the challenge or leave us stranded mid-way....but the momentary exhilaration swept away any negative feeling....the drive was relaxing but sharp.....lesser traffic on this usually crowded road helped us make early time..... We crossed the villages on the outskirts & went on towards Gulabo Peak.....the twists & turns in the mountains along with the breathtaking scenery....totally indescribable in words....

It could be only felt....running through our nerves....charging our blood....oxygenating our minds....making us go overdrive with emotion....near Gulabo Gur stopped to say the engine was responding slow....Sharma asked him to be careful with the clutch.....or there would be problems.....I guess that was just nervousness... we continued....onward.... went through the Army bridges at the riverside...it was a tourist spot but totally empty...(while returning we were stuck in dead slow traffic there....) Sharma's cap fell off...so we lagged behind...then we reached filled our water bag & continued for Rohtang... after some time...at about 0830 we reached Rohtang....we were going good....we stopped for rest....our backsides were numb....

Gurjot expressed desire to defecate on the peak.... & so he did....the rest of us contented with pissing there.....

We started the downhill run at about 0900.....

the turns were sharp & Gur seemed to be taxing his brakes....soon he found the rear brake was not working....Sharma diagnosed it was brake drum failure....& we were almost disgruntled with the affairs....the rest of the run was slow....we passed Kuksar and went on.....now we saw villages on the hills...beautiful places....snow capped peaks for backdrop....villages above & below the road....completely serviced by the army...or so we felt....beautiful green places with many a trees....we hoped to have an outhouse there someday....we came to a landslide area....the road was scheduled to be surfaced next year...but there was no road!!...only a rocky flat terrain.....we were going really slow...in order not to try our bikes anymore....and fearing a puncture....the road continued for about 15 kms...then we entered the plains again...along the mountains the road weaved taking us towards Tandi village where the final petrol pump on the road lay....about 100 kms from Manali... we reached there around 1130..... Filled our tanks....petrol was still the same price...cheaper than Baroda! We left for Keylong...the final village on the road...the views were cool...to say anything would be to degrade the virgin beauty of the place...so we reached Keylong by 1215..... we had come a considerable 112 kms from Manali....the trip was finally going good....

we had lunch....noodles & Pepsi....Parth wouldn’t eat...though we urged him...

We left at around 1330.....after some good road....again a heavy landslide area started....plus we had to go uphill....& this terrain was anything but alright....the bike creaked & groaned.....and left us highly nervous.....water ran on the road....not just water....whole waterfalls!!! pillion had to get down for safety.....and to top it all it was also sandy.....the wheel would get stuck...if we revved up...the bike would jerk and hit a boulder ahead....creaking furiously....so we had to tackle it most cautiously.....finally we came to a betterroad...however better doesn’t mean good...its just relative...the road was almost non-existent in many a places....at about 1530 we started climbing for Baralachcha Pass....supposed to be a tyrant one.... Gur found a short cut & led the way...but Sharma couldn’t handle the straight uphill path with so many loose rocks...and we fell.....I had to shit by now....so I did...while Sharma caught his breath....we met a guy who was cycling...taking a break there....he expressed desire to cycle till Leh....we were filled with awe....that was some daredevil.....& he seemed utmost fit....we took the road up...not the shortcut...Parth was walking down....I walked up to meet him...found Gur had lost the accelerator....so Sharmaji came in…started with the wires....we were all exhausted by now...the cyclist passed us & on he went!!! The screws had worn heads and wouldn’t open...we had to use pliers.....finally we replaced the wire....we found one of the wires we brought to have a larger head...so it was useless…this meant we didn’t have any spare now....we also used duct tape to close the works!!! Finally we pushed off again....didn’t stop at the peak...the road was now worse as ever....all rocky and sandy.....and water pools lined the way.......Gur suddenly saw our bike had a puncture....i got down....we refilled the air...there was no way for repairs...Sarchu the nearest town was still about 30 kms away....and it was nearing to rain....plus it was now about 1700 and hence late....we saw a camp from above and decided to stop there....somehow Sharma got the bike downhill...and reached the camp...it was a tourist camp called Bharatpur or Parsu....there was a mechanic about....got the tire out....but the locales told us there was no puncture shop at Sarchu...only one was at Darcha....50 kms back the way we had come.....this was truly disheartening....we decided to camp there....Gur found a good place....we unloaded the rucksacks & started setting up tents....this was hard work too...all the pegs and too many cooks after all....finally after 30 mins the tents were up....Sharma was still fiddling with the tyre...there was no way to replace the tube....all the spares we had were of wrong size!!! what bad luck....so we went inside the nearest tent for dinner...tried to eat...but even simple dal-rice wouldnt make way down our throats....Gur said it was the height...we were almost at 4500-4600 mts...from Manali at 2000mts just in morning...we were bound to have altitude sickness... & we were feeling cold....really cold....plus it was raining....lightly but enough to chill us down the spine.... we found some truck driver who had tools to open the tyre...we did that...but we opened all the tubes at once...one tube had a loose valve and was uselesss....another setback....we had no spare tubes now...in all the confusion we ended up mixing the tubes...and we couldnt find the right one in the darkness....so we gave him what we thought was the right one... and he made the tyre for us....we inflated it to see in morning whether it was the right tube....

& we slept in the tents...i slept hard....almost rock hard...except for a few times when i woke up due to the dew forming inside the tent...and the rain outside...but PNC couldnt sleep all night...with all the 3 sweaters and windcheater and the heavy sleeping bag he still felt cold....and it kept him awake till morning....

22 June 2004

next day i couldnt come out of the tent...felt so cold....initially...had our breakfast....we found we had put the wrong tube in the tyre...it was completely flat now.....Sharma borrowed tools from another truck wallah & we finally changed the tube.....required a lot of patience....we aligned the tyre to the bike..... then we folded the tents....by this time PNC was feeling highly cold....i also came to know even Rhidul & Gurjot had vomitted all night....and i was cold too....but PNC wanted to go back...he was talking of leaving back by bus...cos he said he would surely fall sick.....we were in a fix...we couldnt leave him....we couldnt go back...it was more tiresome....

we packed our things....got glucose to boost strength....but now PNC & Gur had quarrelled & PNC was adamnant...me & Sharma tried to console him & told him to come with us....that he would get used to it & no one could fall sick out here....that he should eat something....but he just wanted to go home....all the people around tried to tell PNC that it happened the first day....but one got used to it.... he wouldnt listen...

so Sharma said we would leave him at Sarchu where he would find a bus.....after a lot of what can i say Haggling...he agreed.....so we started at 1030....the road was initially bad....very bad....

then we entered the plains....it was like driving beside the Grand Canyon.....green grass plains surrounded by snow capped mountains....different rock formations to be seen & all that....the river was blue....the color of the sky....clear water....fast water racing over the rocks....in the canyon below...Suddenly there was a sharp turn....Sharma almost could have driven into the fall of the canyon....but he balanced it carefully at the last moment... we had come 250+ kms from Manali...after a bridge we reached Sarchu at 1230.....& what was Sarchu??? 4 tents!!!! just four tents...with a military transit station near it....thats all!!! we were dumbfounded.....our bike was making noise....the tyre was scraping against the chain guard.....& we were hoping to find a mechanic or a bus stand to leave PNC at...this was totally unexpected.....

Sharma tried truck wallahs & even at the army camp for tools but we didnt find any....

but we now had unexpected help...guys from the 60kph group were driving right behind us....& stopped here for lunch....they had tools...me & Sharma got to work.....without any success after an hour & half....they took leave with the tools....now we were completely stranded...another luck...

the army towing truck came....& Sharma flagged them down...& asked for help....most willingly they did....

we could only thank our lucky stars...& the jawans....they even offered to tow the bike if needed afterwards...they left ahead of us....we had a late lunch or early dinner as we realized later...PNC had reconciled to fate...and decided to come with us....

we realized we could reach only Pang settlement some 70 kms away till dusk...we pushed off at 1430

pushing off again by the plains....the sights amazed us...the road snaking its way through the uneven rockscape.....with the canyon its faithful companion & the sparkling blue river raving below....

we crossed into Jammu & Kashmir with a bridge...small one ofcourse....there was a machine-gunner in a bunker nearby....watching over the bridge...we were surprised....

we began ascent for Nakeela pass.....we reached GATA loops.....these testing snakes on the cliff face took us straight 900mts in 21 loops!!!

after a lot of time we crossed Nakeela....Sharma found engine oil levels low...but the oil was wih Gur...& he was not stopping..from above we saw him waiting below..but as soon as he saw us....he started on the next pass uphill....

the bike had started coughing....and we couldnt move further after we came down.....

after some time Gurjot returned.....we filled oil & started...slowly....this time there was no downhill ride....

we were passing through altitudes of 4200-4500mts...after some time...landslide area started...along with it the sinking area.....the river ran with us....all the way....now...it was almost 1700....

but again the landscape rejuvnated our spirits....this trip was absolutely exhilirating....

one section of the road was so bad....the diversion was through the river!!! Sharma lost balance & we took time to get the bike out of the pebbly river bed.....finally we crossed another bridge with another machine gunner....& reached Pang settlement...

we didnt care for our tent adventure now....we were all tired....exhausted.....the wind knocked out of us....

we fell asleep at 1800 and didnt wake up till next morning!!!!

during the night i found myself making noises.....hmms...and rolling around....disturbing PNC & another gentleman beside me.....Gur was extremely sick by now....he took some medicine...it was altitude oxygen problem...nausea...vomiting...headache....

once above....there was the plain....the much talked about plain...the road was bad....the plateau was a desert at 4000+mts!!!! The road slithered through it....the scenes was breathtaking...but it was cold...very cold...& Gur was feeling sick....

Dubai Trip Day #4 03Nov08

The clean & impeccable city life hides a reality behind its polished facades: a reality that reeks of exploitation! i would any day like India's unkempt streets with open hearts!

An interesting fact regarding the city is the sheer multiplicity of its nationalities! I personally found that sitting 2 hours in Mall of the Emirates, I could come across citizens of all the major countries. Although south Indians & Fillipinos rule the demographics, there is quite a varied mix.

Unfortunately, with this also comes the heirarchy of life. Indians & Fillipinos are treated like 2nd class citizens while others are shown the red carpet. This may be due to high percentage of labour class being from India & the Phillipines. But I don't understand why should a generalization happen!

While all westerners live in harmony, the culture is strictly Dubai isstyle. Arabs are treated like kings, westerners are the elites, and South Asians are the peasantry! This country is definitely still feudal!!!

While discrimination is not an official policy, a smirk on the face is sufficient to show the culture! maybe Raj Thackerey should visit here, to see what his policies may lead to! If a mixed pot like Dubai can be so racial, Muumbai will definitely be no better!

Here, economical disparity is artificially created by paying South Asians less than others. Raising the cost of living keeps the labour class on its hells, giving them no time to think or comprehend the situation. The first day i landed, i was awed by young people buying / flaunting cars, which are quite non-ordinary in India. But, after further discussion, I found that all of them will willingly forgo this lifestyle & return home if situation permits! All material benefits of the world are not enough to satisfy them, since daily struggle denies them any happiness!

Another way of shackling the middle class is via cheap loans. The expensive cars & homes are offered at 0% loans for upto 25 years & 90-100% of total amount! This means that the person is stuck in the country, paying it back (from his or her salary) for an entire lifetime! Money does not leave the country!!